I would like to apologies
upfront but this is quite a long one, so get a cuppa first or if you just want
to look at the photographs; then go here.
Kangaroo Island is such a
special place that to try and write about our trip in just a few paragraphs
would not do it justice and within my heart this has to be one of the most
beautiful places I have visited. The step back in time which one takes when
arriving is an integral part of the island’s character and something that needs
to be enjoyed and celebrated.
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With the Australia Day long
weekend the decision was made to undertake a visit to Kangaroo Island which is
Australia's third-largest island after Tasmania and Melville Island. It is
150km long and 57km at its widest. Kangaroo Island is rich in history. In 1802,
British explorer, Matthew Flinders landed near Kangaroo Head on Dudley
Peninsula. French explorer, Nicolas Baudin, followed soon after and mapped most
of the island. Kangaroo Island (KI) became Australia's first free settlement,
with sealers, escaped convicts and runaway sailors calling the island home.
Management at work only made
the decision to give everyone a long weekend rather late in the month as the
Thursday was the public holiday which then meant that the Friday off as well;
this then made it worthwhile to so sightseeing. Finding accommodation so late
in the month was the easiest part but unfortunately only a mid-morning ferry
journey across the Backstairs Passage could be booked and an early morning
crossing on the Sunday. Nevertheless it gave us two and half days on the island
and when looking around at what we should visit one had the impression that it
is more than enough time.
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Kangaroo Island is about 7
times the size of Singapore and for those of us that have been there it seemed
like a doddle considering one would not have to deal with the traffic and
relentless taxis which keep Singapore moving. How wrong that turned out to be.
We set off nice and easy on
Thursday morning and being a Public Holiday the roads were relatively quiet and
we got down to Cape Jarvis without a hitch. The weather did not look all that
bad either but by the time we got to the ferry port there was quite a gale
going through the Backstairs Passage to the extent that the ferries were running
30 minutes late. Quite a lot considering that the sailing time is only takes 30
minutes. Anyway we checked in and they confirmed that the ferries are running.
It was quite a trip across and hats off to the captain who did a brilliant job
steering the ferry through the rough seas where at times the horizon
disappeared completely as the ferry went through the trough. Arriving at
Penneshaw the weather started to change and with the sun starting to come out
we headed across the island to Stakes Bay where we were staying for the 3
nights.
It was quite a surprise to find
that the speed limit on the island is 110kph on the tarred roads as much of
South Australia is 100kph. Not that 10kph means much but when one is used to
doing 120kph in other countries it does seem like a crawl. That is a discussion
for another time.
We arrived at Waves and
Wildlife early-afternoon and after getting ourselves checked in; which entailed
reading the sign on the office door, going to the unit and letting yourself in
and unpacking. For the whole time that we were there we never saw anybody in
the office or even had to deal with them. I can just imagine doing that in some
of the other countries we have been to.
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Anyway, the sun was shining so
we went to start having a look around. Now Waves and Wildlife is at Stokes Bay
and it must have the coolest entrance to any beach anywhere in the world.
Arriving at the car park you’re assaulted by a shoreline littered with boulders
with barely a grain of sand in sight. Then you notice a small, unassuming sign
suggesting a beach exists somewhere near the rocky headland to the right. You follow it to a similar sign which directs
you to a small opening in the rocks – where there might be a grizzly bear.
After a short passage through a tiny tunnel there it is – the beach and it is
stunning.
Maybe it’s the sheltered rock
pool or the dazzling white sand or the rugged coastline off in the distance,
but there’s something truly spectacular about Stokes Bay.
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Near the beach is The Rockpool
Café and is most definitely recommended for a light meal. Unfortunately they
are only open until 4/4:30 and then after that one is rather limited for any
restaurants in the area as there are none. Supposedly Stokes Bar and Grill is
at Stokes Bay and the best we could find was a roadside sign pointing towards
the place but that was headed towards a heap of trees and a farm house without
any signs or indication that it could be a place to eat. Anyway they do not
have dinner serving and as we were out all day it did not really matter that
much. Something that we have also not quite got used to in Australia is the
complete lack of eating places around holiday spots; other than the hotels and
pubs which all provide meals of some sorts.
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With a full belly we headed out
west to explore the beaches and sights along the north coast. The first place
we came across was Snellings Beach which is at the mouth of the Middle River
and from Constitution Hill one gets a beautiful view back over the bay.
Next on the coast was another
of Kangaroo Island's spectacular beaches, Western River Cove is a quiet beach,
far from the maddening crowds. The road follows the Western River through the
valley and at the cove it flows into the sea. The hidden sandy cove also has
some stunning geological formations exposing the granitic nature of KI. With a
bit of a walk around it is quite evident that this picturesque area is ideal
for swimming, rock and surf-fishing.
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With the sun heading towards
the horizon it was time to head on home and with most of the roads being gravel
(quite loose on a number of stretches) and with abundant wildlife I did not
want to drive in the dark.
When we got back to the chalet
the advertised promise was kept and we had kangaroos grazing right in front of
us. Being South African we came prepared for having the nightly barbie (braai)
so having lit the gas fire it was simply fantastic to be sitting outside on the
deck watching the roos while having a glass of wine and turning the meat until
perfect.
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A glorious first day had come
to an end and one went to sleep thinking about how lucky one is to have such
stunning scenery around and to be able to experience it.
The next day we woke to cloudy
skies and after a couple of cups of coffee and brekky we headed off to the
Flinders Chase National Park. It was an hour’s journey along the tar road and
within that hour we only saw two other cars. That is one of the things about KI
which adds to its character is that you can travel for an hour and be the only
car on the road.
Since the creation of the
national park in November 1919, Flinders Chase has become a sanctuary for
endangered species, some of them introduced from the mainland in the 1920s and
1930s. During the 1940s, 23 additional species were introduced, including
Koalas (1923) and Platypus (1928).
It is a sanctuary for
endangered species and home to a few geological phenomena.
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Remarkable rocks are one of the
best known icons of Kangaroo Island. They are a collection of enormous eroded
granite boulders sitting atop a giant dome of lava coughed up about 500 million
years ago, boulders were formed by the rain penetrating the upper layer of the
rock, decomposing it into separate boulders. Since then the wind, sea spray and
lichen have since carved the chunks into what look like monumental Henry Moore sculptures
perched 200 feet above a crashing sea.
The red colour of Remarkable
Rocks comes from a tiny living plant, called lichen in contrast to the renowned
Ayers Rock which also has a red colour but that comes from the natural colour
of the granite which forms this world famous icon of Australia.
At Admirals Arch, located at
Cape du Couedic in the Flinders Chase National Park one can only be amazed by
the forces of nature. The viewing platform and boardwalk around a cliff face
leads you to this spectacular natural rock arch, sculpted by weathering and
erosion from the sea over thousands of years.
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The Arch is a remnant of the
ancient cave that was broken by ocean waves and transformed into a natural
bridge. Stalactites are still hanging off the top of the arch as the evidence
of its unusual history. The arch presents a geological significance and
designated as a geological monument.
On the rock platforms we saw
the colony of New Zealand fur-seals which have made this home. These dark brown
seals feed at sea but return to land to rest and breed. Breeding occurs in
summer when males establish territorial areas encompassing a number of females.
Fur-seal pups can often be seen playing near the rock pools beneath the arch.
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Unfortunately the weather was
not at its best as can been seen from the photographs and we then decided to
give the rest of the park a skip and as mid-afternoon was fast approaching
thought it best to head back home. Now having never been someone to take the
direct route the scenic route was chosen which took us along the southern
coast. We also then gave Kelly Hill caves a skip and will do those with another
visit.
We stopped in at Vivonne, a
government proclaimed township of originally sixteen allotments. However, all
but four allotments were ultimately resumed by the Crown as reserve. 1963 an estate of 220
allotments was established along banks of the Harriet River. In 1979, after
investigation of the effects of erosion on the dunal system at Vivonne Bay,
every esplanade allotment was compulsorily acquired by the Crown and these
allotments now constitute a reserve.
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There is a general store
located on the South Coast Road, which will cater for most needs. From here it
was home and so a second day came to a close and we had seen some truly
remarkable sights which will always be with us.
Day 3 was set aside for the
seals at Seal Bay where there is a large colony of the Australian Sea Lion on
the beach. This is one of the most popular tourist destinations on KI. In order
to protect the colony, visitors are only allowed on the beach by paying to go
on a guided tour.
The world population is
estimated at around 14,700. Of these, 85 percent live in South Australia and
the other 15 percent in Western Australia.
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Seal Bay supports the third largest
colony of Australian sea lions with a population of around 1,000 - around five
percent of the world's total.
The Australian Sea lion was
nearly hunted to extinction in the 19th century. We can count ourselves lucky
that places like Seal Bay exist today.
Females undertake three day
fishing expeditions and, while we were there we witnessed a family reunion,
when mum returns to the beach to be greeted by an excited pup. Also a couple of
the big daddies were trying to make their presence known. Just being able to
stand on the beach and look at these amazing animals 25m away was worth the
trip to KI. Also the sun had come out so we had some glorious photographic
weather. In fact thankfully we had our hats as the sun was quite vicious.
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From here we headed towards
Kingscote the biggest town on KI. Originally established at Reeves Point on 27
July 1836, it is South Australia's first official European settlement.
It is home to shops, facilities
and half of the Island’s population – a lively town that is often referred to
as KI’s ‘commercial hub’. Personally I found Kingscote to be a bit of a
disappointment, but then perhaps I was expecting too much and also being a
Saturday afternoon not a lot was happening. So we had a bit of a walk around
and after having seen the scenes over the beautiful Nepean Bay headed out
towards Emu Bay.
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Along the route one passes the
Lavender Farm which was worth the stop; but not for the lavender products, but
rather that which we saw above us when walking to the car. Here was this little
fella catching his afternoon nap in the fork of a blue gum tree.
Emu Bay is a small town of 97
allotments with an even mix of permanent and holiday homes. The town has no
shops or mains water supply. Emu Bay is known as a popular swimming beach, and
is one of few on KI where vehicles are permitted.
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A small jetty dates to 1918.
Originally 109 metres long, it allowed ketches such as Karatta to tie up to
load cargoes, while a nearby fresh water well serviced horses which pulled
wagons down to the bay. Until the 1930s, grain, stock and merchandise were
taken to and from KI from this jetty.
It was getting on towards late
afternoon so we headed back to Waves & Wildlife along the north coast road.
The road climbs to about 300m and we got these beautiful vistas over the island
looking towards Kingscote and the Cygnet River Valley.
With the gas barbie going we
were able to sit outside and enjoy the company of the grazing kangaroos as we
thought back onto a day which had such a highlight of being amongst the seals.
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Now before we head home I must
tell you about Parndarna which was our nearest town about 20km from the
chalets. Parndana was established after the Second World War to support the
Soldier Settlement Scheme on KI. The name "Parndana" means "The
Place of Little Gums". It is located in the centre of the island and is
home to a population of around 150, however most of this population do not live
in the town, they are sprawled within a few kilometres.
Parndana truly comes alive in
November when the annual Speed Shears event is held. Shearers from Australia
and overseas compete in one of the richest shearing events in the world.
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With the dawn of day four we
knew it was time to head back home. Waves and Wildlife where we based ourselves
is a cluster of chalets set on 80 acres bordering one of KI’s most beautiful
beaches, directly behind the cliffs of Stokes Bay beach with no roads in
between. It boasts everything you imagine KI to be with glorious views over
Investigator Strait from the front deck.
Much of the property remains
natural bush land which is home to large mobs of the KI Kangaroo which graze around
the cottages every evening and can be seen around grazing the property or
resting in shade of the surrounding trees during the day and that is a
wonderful memory that we will always have with us.
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Being an early Sunday morning
journey out to be on the 10:30 ferry meant the road was quiet and we had some
of our last views of this beautiful island before reaching Penneshaw which is
where the ferry port is located. Penneshaw, the second largest town on Kangaroo
Island, has a population of around 300, and is located on the north eastern tip
of the Dudley Peninsula, on the eastern end of the island.
The ferry journey across the
Backstairs Passage was very different from the crossing to KI. In complete
contrast we had a beautiful calm sea with some great views towards KI and also
Cape Jervis. It was with real sadness that one left KI and if the cost of the
ferry crossing was a lot more reasonable we would be there on a regular basis
considering the Cape Jervis is only 60 minutes from home; by direct route that
is. But the $348 return trip must make it one of the most expensive ferry
crossings in the world and that makes KI very expensive to weekend on.
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Thank you for allowing me to
share this adventure with you and until the next visit be careful wherever you
are.
